Transfers

Vincent Carburators
The subject of rich discussion: Click for Blow-up of Standard Amal Carb for Vincent

Comet 1949 - 1954
Carburetter type: 229F/1DV
Mix Chamber Body No.:229/112R
Internal Bore: 1-1/8"
Center line of body to face of flange: 1-1/4" dia.
Flange centers: Clip
Jet block part number: 220/069R
Jet block size no.: 58
Jet size no. 200
Throttle Valve: 29/3
Needle position: 3
Needle Jet: Std
Float Chamber type number: 64/154B
Spare parts list no.: 440 Doug Wood 10/4/07

Amal jets are sized by flow rate. As an example, a 180 jet flows 180cc per minute with a set head of fuel. I don't know what that head is ( a tank of kerosene 1ft (12") above the jet normalised to 21 Deg C) a nd the flow rate is measured in cc per minute as it was all done at the factory. No doubt it could be back checked by setting up a marked jet and increasing the head until it flows the marked amount. Phelps 12/20/07

Tuning and Jetting Guide For Amal Mk.1 Concentric Carbs on Vincent Twins, and Singles.

There are (3) major components to the proper setup of Amal Mk.1 Concentric carbs when used on Vincents. These are: 1) Carb Modifications, 2) Carb Jetting, and 3) Ignition Timing. Each will be covered here in great detail.

Amal Mk.1 Concentric Carb Modifications.

New Amal Concentrics can be purchased today from several sources, and sometimes, they can be bought equipped with the jetting that you will specify. Regardless, these carbs whether new, or old/used need to be "blue-printed" for use on a Vincent. I learned the hard way that they CAN NOT be just mounted, and used. I found data on the proper setup of the float level. I discovered that a restrictor low speed orfice must be drilled out, and I discovered that the brass fuel feed nozzle in the bore needs to be modified (like a Norton 850' 932 carbs). Perform all (3) of these mods!

1) Float Setting: Normally the float in NOT adjustable. The float's needle seat that is in the float bowl can be moved slightly up or down to the precise location by first running very hot tap water over the seat for a few minutes, and then gently tapping the seat in either direction to move it. Use different sized rods, or drill bits in a manner that won't hurt the delicate needle's seating surface. The proper float height is .080" measured from the top of the float to the top edge of the float bowl. It is important that the stock bowl gasket be used because of it's specific thickness. To measure for the .080", assemble the float, float pin, and needle into the bowl, and carefully hold the float pin fully down as if it was installed to correctly position the float, hold the float level, and upright as if it was on the bike. I use a .080" drill bit, and I lay it on the top edge of the bowl near the float (opposite end of the float from the needle), and I "eyeball" the thickness of the .080" drill bit, and compare how far down the float edge is from the bowl edge. The float drop should equal the thickness of the .080" drill bit. The seat will need to be heated, and moved several times to get this adjustment just right. If the float level is too low, the carb will always act lean, and if the level is too high, the carb will always act too rich!
2) Low-Speed (Pilot) Jet Restrictor: The Low-Speed jet size for a Vincent is very important, and on the later Concentric carbs, a restrictor jet of about a #15 jet size is installed that limits the available low-speed jetting size. This size is only applicable to 500's! On the side of the carb is an angled screw for setting the slide height, and a horizontally mounted adjusting mixture screw. Remove the mixture adjusting screw, and spring, and look into the hole it came out of. You will see a restrictor jet with a very small hole (.015"). This will need to be drilled out with a .040" tiny drill bit. Great care must be used while doing this to not wreck the carb, or to break off the end of the drill bit! Now this restrictor is equivelant to a #40 low-speed jet (larger than you will ever need). Now, the normal low-speed (pilot) jets can be screwed into the carb body's pre-drilled orfice above the float bowl. A #30 Low-speed jet is correct for most Vincent applications. A general rule for selecting the correct low-speed jet is that the fastest idle speed found by adjusting the mixture needle while idleing should be found with the needle out between 1 to 1 1/2 turns out (prefferably 1 1/4 turns out).
3) Brass Fuel Feed Nozzle Modification: The brass fuel feed nozzle visible inside the throttle bore (the needle goes into it also) has a round cylindrical design where it stands about 1/4" above the bores lower edge. This is appropriate for small displacement motors, but for larger applications (like a Norton 850, and Vincents) this feed nozzle needs to be modified. When you look into the carb's bore you can see this feed nozzle. The complete back half (downstream) needs to be cut away. To do this, carefully scribe a mark along the lower rear edge of the feed nozzle along the body's bore surface. Mark a small dot with a "Sharpie" pen to orient the exact midpoint of the rear of the feed nozzle. Disassemble the carb to remove this feed nozzle. Carefully mark the sides of the feed nozzle with vertical lines for cutting away material. You want to use a Dremmel tool with a cut-off disc, and be very careful to remove exactly 1/2 of the feed nozzles exposed material (the rear half!!). Re-assemble the carb. The need for this is because at low engine speeds with only slight throttle (slide) opening, the in-rushing air will pick up fuel from the needle while air is rushing around the feed nozzle, rather than the air having to rush over the top of the feed nozzle. Untill I discovered this mod, I was suffering poor low end running, as well as alot of detonation, and heat build-up.

Jetting Guide For Amal Mk.1 Concentric Carbs For Vincents.

As you know, not any (2) motors, and their operating enviroments are going to be identical. These jetting guidelines should either be correct for your bike, or at least be within one jetting change from correct. Careful observations, and adjustments must be made after an initial impression has been realized. I have discovered some things that may influence other bikes. One is the size , and flow rate of your pet-cocks. These are bigger carbs, and under hard riding, they may need more fuel than your pet-cocks were flowing before. I have had great success from the late Norton style pet-cocks with the "paddle-type" lever. Don't get the cheaper Taiwan units. Spend the extra money, and get the much better British made units! Pet-cocks can definitely affect your main jet size!.

Jetting Specs:

1) Slide: I like the 3.0 slide for quicker throttle response than the standard Amal 3.5 slide. Use "hard-chromed" slides if you can find them. The last ones I found were at (Clubman Racing). The "Pot-Metal" standard style slides just won't last as long, but they work great.
2) Needle: I use the standard Amal needle with (3) needle clips. I've found the middle notch to be best for higher elevation, and in some cases, the lower (richer) notch might be best. This is a very subjective setting, where you will need to drive test each setting to find which feels the best. This setting affects the feel of normal "inner-city" type acceleration (not high, or low speed running).
3) Needle Jet: The standard size needle jet is a #106. I have had better success with a richer #107 needle jet. This adds a tiny bit of richness to the mixture at idle, just after idle, and everywhere along the needles taper. This increase was very beneficial to my Vincent as well as my Norton 850. I have found that it is easier for me to remove my bowls, and upsize a needle jet instead of removing the carbs to change a needle clip position when going from my home at 7,000" elevation to sea level. Often people are changing low-speed, and sometimes main jets to cure a mid-range jetting problem, where a change in the needle jet was the only cure. I've found that bikes that ran fine decades ago on older style fuel usually need an upsize of at least one size for the needle jet to react to today's newer fuels. I've found this to also be true for my Mikunis! What people don't tend to realize is that the relationship of the needle jet orfice to the needle's shank diameter is actually another jet size! This relationship affects the jetting from idle to just under full throttle.
4) Main Jet: I have found for a basic Rapide, or Shadow motor that a #220 jet for higher elevation, and a #230 jet for sea level works best. This size may need to be adjusted if you are running straight through muffler, velocity stacks, hotter cams, etc.. I use #250 jets in my 1,164 cc "Big Bore" motor with Mk.2 cams, 10:1 compression, and a straight through muffler.
5) Low-Speed (Pilot) Jet: I found the #30 Low-Speed jet to be correct for a basic Rapide or Shadow motor. I am using a #35 jet in my "Big Bore" 1,164cc motor.
6) Float Level: The float level at the top edge of the float measured at the dge away from the needle and seat should be .080" below the top edge of the float bowl. This has been covered above! Jim Mosher 11/29/07 (Jim designed and sells Concentric manifols for Vincents at www.performanceindian.com ....seems like an OK guy. He also posted an excellent complimentary article in the Vincent Tech Section on Magnetos.)

I'm running 32mm Concentrics on F10AB/1/399; #3 slides , Needle clips in center groove, needle jets #106, main jets 230, pilot jets #30. With 2500 miles on a fresh engine, it starts easy, idle is great, will go over 100 mph (once, according to chronometric speedo, impulsively, with suspension and brakes not fully set up) @ 35-37 degrees advanced timing with a BTH magneto. 50mpg average. Plugs read rich which is a project currently underway to correct. Jack 9/15/07

Mixture: 1) mark the throttle at fully closed and at fully open. Then you'll know whether the trouble is slide (0 - 1/4 open), needle (1/4 to 3/4), or main jet. Main jet affects both, but sounds as though you have a flat spot. 2) I'm running 190 rear 180 front with no filters. The rear is pretty good, the front masked by oil but there are no holes in the piston, so I think they're both good. Unless the K & N filters have no impact on airflow, you ought to be weaker than that. 3) If you can hold the throttle at the flat spot and lower the air lever s-l-o-w-l-y, if the problem goes away before it gets much worse you were too lean, if it gets worse before it gets much worse you were too rich.. Roy Cross 6/19/07

Idle Mixture Adjustment: While its easier to hear and feel on a single like a Comet -- the air screw is slowly backed out from snugged in by about 1 and one quarter turns . As it leaves its seat the motor speed will begin to tick over faster and reach a peak at that no. of turns approximately, each motor a little different . Somewhere between one full rotation and a bit past another quarter it will begin to drop off again , at that point stop , and go back in a bit . Ease off the slide screw to bring down the idle revs to a nice even beat , then repeat the air screw dance to see if it has changed its needs and re-adjust slightly the same way . The rule is this , the highest peak you reached is slightly too lean to start easily -- so go back in slightly richer , ie . " just a bit rich off the lean peak " . OUT is leaning it out , IN is going richer . This is an art , not a science and more difficult on a twin due to the other cy. firing . Takes practice and a good ear . Do it on a warm motor , NOT on a really hot one as the rising heat gets the liquid fuel to perculate and messes up the process . Dont let her idle too long and get too hot . Get it done in as short a period as practical for you and not being harmful to the motor . Prolonged idling can cook the rings and piston . On a twin you can lever up on each slide in turn with a spoke and tell from the beat which is hitting harder , then back off a tiny bit on that one and raise the other slide till they sound the same at the tail pipe . Good Luck . Sid .

If the floatis not distorted / crushed or full of fluid, and if the needle is correct pattern and not had its slot altered then the level should be correct or nearly so . That is if the bowl itself is the correct one. If there is a reason to suspect the mixture is rich or lean then this can be acertained by raising or lowering the float bowl by placing an extra washer on top /or below to effect a height change. For a fast check just rotate the entire carburetor around its stub fitting to lift or lower the contents within. Sid (8/8/06)

There is a quick way to check float levels check to do this without removing the float bowls. Check and adjust the level as normal; then modify a spare drain plug to accept a clear flexi hose - something along the lines of the windscreen washer tubing, only gasoline resistant. Then it's just a question of fitting the modified plug and raising the tube to above the fuel level in the bowl. The fuel should find a certain level. You can either scribe a mark on the bowl or measure accurately down from the gasket face and record in your service book. Granted the centre carb isn't the easiest to check but with a touch of trial and error... If you modify three plugs and fit simultaneously, you can use longer hoses and compare both levels. Next time you think the levels are out you can at least check both without disturbing the carb settings. marc 8/8/06

Yes, theAmal 276/289 jet blocks are handed, there are two things different, one is the smallest hole on the edge adjacent to a larger air hole, the other difference is more obvious: there is a scallop out of the top to allow the idle screw to pass through. I reckon if you got the idle screws in you gotthe jet blocks in the right bodies. I have just tried swapping some handed jet blocks in a pair of 289's and can confirm you will not get the screw in if they are the wrong hand! The 276's are handed, I think the early twins had nearly identical 276's so that the pilot air bleed screws were on the same side. But the later ones had them on the opposite sides. Roger Sparks 4/25/06

Amal Repair Work
AKA Lund Machine Compamy has gone out of business (retired) and sold to:
Andy Harden of AMAL SLEEVE Co.
http://www.amalsleeve.com/
800 295-2915
21502 99th Avenue S.E.
Snohomish, Washington 98296 USA

Concentrics: If any one is using or wants to use these carbs, here is the setup for 930's (30mm). This gives 1st kick starts and perfect throttle response, with text book plug readings (Champion #120). These are the late model Concentric w/#25 pilot jets built in. Starting from the top: #622-122 throttle needle in lowest position; #3 throttle valve (slide); #106 needle jet (use the one with the cross hole in it; #180 main jet. set the pilot air screw around 1 turn open, then adjust to your bike's requirement. Set the throttle stop so there is a 1/16" gap at the bottom of the slide and adjust to your bike when warm. John Ulver 4/4/05

Mikuni heaven: http://www.sudco.com/

Slides: A couple of weeks ago at the Urshel emporium Mike showed me an original 289 slide that he had sleeved several years ago in England to fit a bored out body. It was superbly done. Does anyone know who might have done or is doing this work? The reason I ask is that the slides that I have had made for bored out bodies become sloppy after a few thousand miles. We suspect that this is due to them being machined out of a single stainless blank and there is a tendency for the lower ends to contract towards each other facilitated by the two wide slits up the sides.

We did a little experiment. We measured the diameter at the top and bottom of an original slide (virtually unworn), the sleeved slide in question and my stainless machined slide with three thousand miles on it. In the case of the original and the sleeved slide the diameter at the lower point, just above the cutaway, was actually slightly larger than at the top by about 2-3 thou. In the case of the stainless slide it was smaller by 4 thou.

Both the original and sleeved slide were of brass, (in the latter case we don't know what the sleeve material was). Could it be that Amal deliberately built into the design a slight differential in diameter so that the lower slide edges were always under slight tension against the body ensuring a good seal?

Experience has also showed us that when you mechanically widen the diameter, by carefully prizing the lower edges of a slide apart a little, the brass will retain this new attitude allowing you to get several thousand more miles out of it . However a stainless slide will return within a short while (days) to its original attitude as if it has a "memory", this in spite of the fact that the stainless slide is at least 10 thou wider in wall diameter. Tim Baldric 4/3/03

CV Carburators: Everybody who experiments has concentrated on high efficiency carbs, like the TT/GP's, flatslide Keihins or Mikuni's, or round slide Mikuni's--or even Dellorto's. The bad rap on CV carbs is the flow is less than optimum because of the butterfly valve in the airstream. The benefit is that since the slide opening is responsive to vacuum from the intake, the mixture should always be perfect. It's a "demand" system. Even with shelves full of high-performance carbs, I've thought seriously of trying CV carbs on a Vincent engine. Despite appellations like "the Beast," your post-war engine is in a relatively mild state of tune, and requires neither the lightning response nor the enhanced flow characteristics of the best of the competition carburetors. If your Vin is in a relatively standard state of tune and displacement, I wouldn't recommend a bit over 34mm bore, even with a CV carb--and maybe not even that large.

For example, if you have done any cleanup in the ports and have 9-9.5:1 CR and MkII cams, up to 34mm could be OK (given the poor top-end airflow characteristics). But the lovely thing about the CV delivery is that you will find a smooth operation no matter the speed range or demand you place on the carbs. John Caraway 12/14/01

Synchronizing Carbs: The one thing to remember is that with the one cylinder inoperative , with the removal of the plug, and maybe the plug hole open. Is that the back pressures will not be functioning as normal, and you will NOT get the setting correct. If you want to find out more, try setting the carbs up with vacuum gauges, and you will find that when you adjust the throttle stop on one carb, the gauge on the other cylinder moves. I would say it`s almost impossible to get the carbs synchronised , by any other means than with gauges. Trevor 04/24/01

Regarding where to sleeve carbs in the USA: Mike Gaylord does Mk l Concentrics at 360 456-1425; Walt Lund machine does Type 6's and Monoblocs at 520 790-9875. Carl Hungness 04/19/01

Many leaky float problems on the 27's & 29's are caused by poor fuel shutoffs and short side stands. Remove the fuel lines from the shutoffs and there should be no, I repeat no fuel dripping. The standard sidestands lean the Vincent over too far, on the left stand the rear carb. will drip until the the fuel level drains off from the float chamber through the bleed hole in the jet block, because the level in the float just got raised above the hole, and then out on to the back of the engine. On the right stand it's the same for the front carb., except that it drips on to the primary case.

If the fuel taps aren't dripping , then dip each needle in Brasso and give each seat a rub. Then extend each side stand 3" so that your bike will stand up straighter.To prove if it's the stand's fault, the carbs.shouldn't drip when the machine is on the rear stand.
To go the extra mile I machined an "O" ring groove in the needle of the front carb. right where it seats, after installing the "O"ring I then ground it flush with the tapered needle.

The rear needle, I shortened, and drilled it so that a Mikuni float needle could be snapped on to the end of it. This then required boring the old seat out and making and pressing in a seat that matches the new needle. They still drip! So! One minute before you plan on stopping, turn off the fuel, this will lower the fuel level enough to stop the dripping. Thats what I do. Dan Smith 03/09/01

I bought a K&N "high flow" air filter, was told by my friend, Dynojet and K&N that the reason for my performance accelerating was because of the weather. Thanks to my wife for having the same bike, just stock and running better, they were wrong and many of you on this forum were right. I broke down this week and moved the needle to 3.5, which did little and finally the 4th notch on the Dynojet needle. The bike not only is responsive but very smooth, no on/off rocking, no lag in thinking about accelerating, etc.

Many of us bought the K&N a month or two ago and I'm sure someone, other than just me, will have the same problem. The forum discussed how a "higher flowing" filter would require adjusting the carb. Take note The K&N may require a needle adjustment, but the adjustment may make your bike the best it's ever been. I still can't believe they market this air filter as "high flow" but insist carb changes are not necessary. Pascal 02/15/01

Float needles as originally fitted to Amal Monoblocks and Concentrics were solid one piece nylon needles. In response to reports of dripping and seepage past the needle, newer up-graded needles( the Viton rubber tipped version) were later offered as an extra cost option. About the same time Amal described a modification to both tapered needle and needle jet holder which quite transformed the running of the Concentric. The long needle now had 3 circles about its upper end and the jet carrier was longer in its lower portion. A reminder was made concerning the little brass hood situated in the base of the choke - that the 4 stroke part was cut off straight across its top while the 2 stroke version was cut off across its top at a steep angle. Many complaints of mixed assembly between body type components resulting in poor tunning have been received at Amal. The motorcycles ran poorly and were a beast to start ! I found this mix-up on a BSA 441 that was a pig to start. After correcting the mismatched pieces, starting became far easier, low speed running far improved, and roll-on power increased. If your motorcycle runs like a pig have a look inside its carburetor ! S.M. Biberman

Beware of Vitron tipped carburator needles if you are running on unleaded petrol. I bought a new Monobloc carb for my Comet and couldn't understand why the needle stuck in the closed position after every ride. A friend then advised me that unleaded petrol reacts on the vitron. Since changing back to an old type standard needle I have had no more trouble. D.J. Peters 01/18/01

I think what you are referring to is actually Viton without the r. I also suspect that the problem with the carburator needle sticking is more likely that it is a mechanical wedge into seat than the rubber sticking. Dan Smith cut o-ring grooves in his type 29 remote float needles and put o-rings in them and then ground them to the taper leaving them just a 1/2 thou proud and they stuck shut every time. In frustration he ground them flush and ta-da, they worked perfectly. One of the only rapides running original carbs that
don't leak when you leave the taps on and put it on the side stand!! Robert Watson 01/18/01

I made a pair of flange-to-flange adapters for MK I's. Here's how I did it.

First I polished the necked-down portion of a pair of standard adapters. Then I made a pair of flanges that were a few thousands undersize. With the adapters temporarily mounted to the engine, I put some alignment marks on the adapters and the flanges so I could install the flanges in the proper orientation.

Next step...put the adapters in the refrigerator's freezer compartment and the flanges in the oven at about 350-400 degrees F. Place the hot flange on a flat surface (such as a smooth block of wood) and plunge the cold adapter into it. If it won't fit (which mine didn't on the first two attempts) polish the necked-down
portion of the adapters a little more.

Repeat the heating, freezing, and plunging steps until you can get the adapter to bottom out in the flange.

Mine work perfectly--a complete seal was accomplished. Someone with a milling machine can make the holes for you to the kind of precision required. Just have them drill the two mounting holes and bore the center intake passageway. You could also get them to mill a good flat surface on one side. Afterwards you can cut them out with a hacksaw and file the edges to match the flanges on your MK I's. A few VERY careful strokes with a flat file will assure a good mating surface if the adapter went slightly past the milled surface.

Without going out to the shop to measure the thickness, I would guess mine are about 1/2" thick--it was just
a scrap of aluminum I had on hand. "Jay" 9/14/00

Mikuni Modification by Bill Easter 6/28/00 A number of people, Glenn Shriver and others, are using Mikuni VM carburettors on their Vincents and some would like to use cable start (choke) on the smaller 28 mm instead of the lever mounted on the carb. Here is a suggested modification to the cable start parts which I have not tried yet. The problem is that the vertical space for the piston and spring in the 28 mm and smaller carb. is about 0.225" less than in the 30 mm and larger carbs. The diameters and thread sizes of the parts are the same. I suggest boring the bottom (threaded end) of the threaded cable start fitting 0.225" deeper so that the spring can go into it this much further and shorten the cable adjuster by 0.225". Turn the full length of the top of the piston (slight smaller diameter of the piston and portion with slot and hole for cable nipple) down to 0.260" from 0.293" so that it will go into the threaded fitting. This will also require that the cable end nipple be reduced in length and possibly shaped/radiused at the ends.

Hylomar for leaking carb washers. As I happened to have some of this already, and the data sheet states it's completely gasoline-proof, I decided to try it. I soaked new fiber washers in Hylomar, coating them completely, and also applied it to the threads of the various fuel fittings. On reinstalling everything, it seems to have done the trick - no visible leakage! I haven't given the system an acid test yet by going for a long ride, but it's way more gasoline-tight than it was before. Also, Hylomar is neat stuff - it's non-setting, so you can smear it about pretty freely and then wipe it off anywhere visible when you're done.
5/22/00 VOC-Jtan

Time for a few comments from the Western Canadian contingent about carbs, piston holes and the interconnections in life!!

I have run original Shadow carbs on the Woolly and when I went up to 9.4:1 I also went to 34 mm flat slide Mikunis. The carbs were new and jetted very rich, like 25 MPG rich. After many tries and 3 seized pistons I got the jetting really close and no more holes. I am now running HD electronic ignition and with no suitable timing device installed have set my timing by ear- like advance till you detonate and the just back a bit. Good enough to run mid 7's at Ramsey and also give a real good thrash around the Island. Many times I hear people with pistons holed who immediately blame the pistons but I feel the holed pistons are the result of the problem and not the cause. I must agree with Sid, for who am I to disagree, that you need to look at mixture, ignition advance, and fuel supply problems long before you blame a piston.

I know of one such piston being blamed and yet running over 40 degrees advance! My experience says if you are getting more that 55-60 MPG on a nice 65 MPH cruise for a full tank then you are probably too lean. Don't assume when something breaks that it is a problem all by itself, life doesn't work that way.

By the way I recall some suggestions about Mk 2 concentrics and jetting some time ago. If any one has them could they send them to me. It seems a Twin recently arrived here is running rather rich and has a brand new set of Spanish Mk 2s.

And a note for Nick Cleary. I'm not promoting and I know some may disagree but, making reference to the above, Danny Smith ran Kemp's pistons on his 30,000 miles plus travels to the tip of South America and then up to the
Yukon and they sre still just fine. Shadow type 29's, Mag ignition, and the addition of chrome top rings. If you have the confidence that you are going to keep your motor together and not need to disturb them, put in good chrome rings, and hone the bores to the clearance recommended by the piston guys to the finish recommended by the ring guys. With a good seal, no blow by, no oil leaks, no fancy breather (another of those blame the breather
when your leaky rings are pressurising the cases causing the leaks) and you should get a sweet running motor. Robert 4/04/00

Holed Pistons: Usually it is a mixture setting and/or restricted fuel flow promoting a severely leathal condition . Also high on the list of causes would be excess ignition advance . The flow fault is often as simple as a clogged filler cap vent hole or fouled filter screens on the fuel taps, or even not always opening both taps at sustained and elevated speeds..

The early original cork taps are always suspect at providing sufficient flow for speeds above 60 -70 MPH and never for top speed runs . Larger bore lever taps and opening out larger that cap vent is tops on the list for serious Vincent riders as would be closely setting ones ignition timing . Incorrect jet sizes, sticky floats, and inlet manifold air leakage at the male to female joint ( particularly that last one) are very common on older Vincents. S.M. Biberman

Petcocks

Sid,
That reminds me of a time I was riding home on my Vin, one afternoon, in fast traffic, on a single lane in each direction road. I was running on the left side tap and using the right side tap as reserve. As luck would have it, she started to run dry going over a fairly long bridge. So I pulled out the right tap for reserve. And I mean, I pulled it out! It seems that the stop screw had backed out on me and was no longer doing its job.

So here I was, going up a grade, on a bridge, with no place to pull over, with my petcock in my throttle hand, as I watched my reserve fuel poring out on my right boot and exhaust pipe, to the sound of my carburettors backfiring from lack of fuel. To prove the old bromide about God looking out for fools, I was able to put the the cork carrier back in the petcock on just the second try, (I was wearing winter weight gloves at the time), and still had enough
fuel to make it over the bridge and to pull over and empty my boot of the excess fuel it was now holding.

So to my fellow Vincent owners, don't try to top this. Please check those petcocks and think about an upgrade. ( I did, and I also put a little extra $ in the plate, the next Sunday). Ken Smith ( Phil. Pa. USA )

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