Yes, the plug should be sealed so as to make Air Tight - and Oil tight !   It is a cross drilling used in machining to connect drillings for oil pump, then sealed with the plug.. common practice.  Mike

If you just want to grade them from small to large,  find two rollers (bearing rollers) that fit approximately 1/2 way into the tooth space.  Place them between opposite sets of teeth (for even teeth) or staggered by one tooth opposite (for odd numbers of teeth) and measure acccross the pins.  You will probably find this will vary if  you work your way around the gear taking successive measurements.  This could be due to wear or pitch diameter run out.  Another useful way to gage your gear is to rubber band a set of rollers around the entire gear and spin the gear on centers with a the rollers passing a test indicator.  This will give you a sense of the pitch diameter run out with respect to the axis of rotation.

Sophisticated gear manufactures make a test gear to exact dimensions and run the manufactured gear spring loaded against the test gear.  Then then measure the displacement of the manufactured gears axis as it rotates.  This provides a quick cumulative measure of the inaccuracies that result from gear manufacture.

No gear is perfect.  You need to set up your gears so that there is zero interferance in the worst case condition and live with the noise as your imperfect gear rotates into positions where the mesh is less than ideal.

Incidentally, when a gear tooth is transmitting power it deflects a tiny bit, so that the set of gear teeth about to come into contact are no longer synchronized and they collide a tiny bit when they first touch.  You can see this on some gears as evidenced by a contact line across the gear at about 2/3 of the gear tooth height.  Fancy gears have the profile slightly backed off at this location for improved durability.  Another solution is to use an aluminum gear whose sacrificial soft surface will abrade away to provide optimum performance.    Richard Friedman  4/15/09

Ernesto is also an aircraft mechanic and restorer, and commented that he made changes to aircraft to reduce oil on the tarmac (and the aircraft!) and this was approved by their aviation inspectors. He figured he could improve on the Vincent's breathing arrangement, also.

So far, looking at several of his machines, none leak from the breather, that I can tell. In fact, I see no leaks, anywhere, so either their owners have a handy rag at all times or he's doing effective stuff toward no leaks.  The pipe bending is definitely the only item that a bloke like me would struggle with, in doing this fix. I can see that other adaptations might work, regarding that. Anyway, this set-up appears to be a breather leak stoppage, as opposed to minimization.  Bev Bowen  9/4/07

I might mention also that the valve lifter kit probably best suits the Mark 1 and 3 standard cams.  The Mark 2 BL cam has a smaller base circle to get a higher lift.  The Black Lightning with the Mark 2 cams did not usually have a valve lifter fitted, but sometimes it did.  If the valve lifter is used with Mark 2 cams it needs extra care in fitting and adjusting because of the differences mentioned.  But it always needs care in fitting any time any of the pieces and parts involved are replaced anyway.  Heck, let's face it, Everything on a Vincent needs care in fitting!  Bill H. (5-15-05)

For those who have never seen a diecast case, let me mention the improvements more specifically:

Better dimensional control, less weight by avoidance of surplus material.

Camplate spindle boss greatly strengthened, made a full-width boss in the gearbox ceiling.

Camplate actuating bevel boss also made more massive and continuous, although unlike the spindle boss, I never heard of any breakage on this.

More metal around the main bearings to hold onto them more reliably (the drive side roller race almost always comes loose in the early case, either from flywheels shifting out of line a little, or racing abuse).

More metal in the front end of the primary chaincase so that if the chain breaks it won't take the casting out.  Bill Hoddinot  8/13/03

                        Intake             Exhaust

Open:             37 BTC             51 BBC
Close:             51 ABC            37 ATC
Valve Lift:       .365"               .365"
Duration:        268 Deg.           268 Deg.
Lobe Center:     97 Deg.           97 Deg.
Lash (cold):     .001"-.003"      .001"-.003"

Megacycle Phone: 415- 472-3195 or FAX: 415- 472-1497.  Address: 90 Mitchell Boulevard, San Rafael, California 94903.  They have no email address.  Ask for Barbara in the sales department or for Jim Dour to answer any technical questions. George Missbach Jr. 1/23/03

The upper liner recess is recut as new. Then new liners - usually 40 thou OS pieces -  are gripped in the mandrels and the OD  is turned down with a fine cut to the desired size - 6 thou greater than the new muff bore, this just over the distance covered by its muff.  Beneath that the projecting lower portion is taken down to a firm hand press fit in its upper cylinder register mouth, and marked for that position, front or rear. After being cleaned carefully this liner is wed to its muff under the press while
nicely heated - the sleeve being cold. Allowed to cool fully under the press it is removed and examined at the upper end to ascertain that the flange is indeed fully home after cooling. If not then the heating and press is repeated to acheve that aim. The process is repeated for its mate. The drilling site and cupping / milling away of the rear thrust face for catchment is done Only after being sure that the hole will break through Beneath the oil ring land on the piston, it must not be high enough to force oil in to fill that groove on the assembled piston fitted to its rod . If not done correctly that cylinder will always run very oily - the scraper ring unable to clear away the excess.

Only a Very thin hard base gasket paper as was first used will not squeeze down loseing your torque settings. We now eliminate that gasket fitting a thin O ring lying in a shallow recess turned into the lower inner edge of the muff where it meets the liner surface.   Just a quarter inch wide smear of sealant beyond that is employed, the rest of the wide alloy faces allowed into full and intimate contact for increased thermal flow into the cases .

As to the matter of the gap between the upper faces with the head firmly sitting atop the head - after lapping as prescribed
in the Works sheets, we usually find a gap width of around 3  thou. resulting from the grain size differance, the courser used on those broader faces having removed more metal.  This will close up hard upon torqueing the head nuts as Irving designed it to do . With the bottoms of those big nuts and the washer faces smooth and flat - use a fine oil stone - and lightly oiled the procedure is to tiguten criss-cross in several small stages up to a figure of No More than 30 to 32 ft. lbs.  Leave sit overnite to settle out and repeat to that same figure . For the reasons dig out my piece called " Demon Tweak",  its in Forty Years On " and was  fully to Irvings acceptance. Simply  stated - beyond that figure removes the natural stretch needed within the
cylinder long studs, this allowing growth of the alloy column during the full heat of operation, with out distorting the muff or pulling down the cylinder head internal structure causing loss of allignment between top to bottom guides leading to valve leakage and burning, and rapid stem/guide wear.  The shop proceidure described is very time consuming and thus costly, but there is no other method of ensuring correct top half function when hot, all necessary for a fast Vincent.  S.M. Biberman  1/13/03

At that point, my concern was the amount of interference fit between the liner and my muffs which I feared was less than desirable.  With the intention of locking the liner against rotation, I got the idea to drill and tap a single hole in the rear base of each muff in which I installed a 1/4" socket (allen) screw which fit into a mating 1/4" diameter impression ground into the liner.  I just barely snugged the screw in place using blue Loctite.  So far, I don't believe the liners have turned.  Russ Williams 1/9/03

Whilst the tube is in the lathe take the opportunity to polish the whole outside of the tube with  fine emery cloth, especially at the bottom end where the tube will enter the crankase seal. Its amazing how oil will creep past the finest of scratches so polish all the scratches out.  No need to worry abought altering the outside diameter of the stainless tube but worry about cleaning the lathe of all that emery dust properly!

The crankase seal is a poor design! I think a tight fitting O-ring is a better seal than the standard hydraulic seal ET104 we have always used.  I think the standard seal is distorted by the close tolerances between the crankase machine recess and the tube being too tight, thus preventing the hydraulic design seal from working as intended. These seals should not be distorted for them to work properly. It is better to use an O-ring and oil-resistant sealer around the outside just before final assembly. Apply
to the outside only and wipe smooth before the stuff dries.  If you are making new tube nuts ET127 a nice little modification
is to cut six slots instead of just four this makes it easier to get the two prongs of the K1 spanner to work in a confined area and to enable a nice snug bite on the seals to be maintained. If you can, make them in stainless and polish them. Its also a nice mod to put a thin steel washer between the top of the tube nut and the fibre washer to prevent the action of tightening the nut from tearing the washer.  Andrew Rackstraw 1/03/02

The morale of all this is to refrain from long periods as described.   Set a faster idle of 1600 to 1800 - or double the
earlier revs.  This advances the timing a bit so burning the pipes less as the flame retreats back into the chambers. It is even better to ride your Vincent at a gentle speed to warm all components equally and move some air over the exhaust  pipes.   The
colder weather coming should have you blocking off those air inlet spaces at the front between  fuel tank and the UFM.  This results in a quicker warm up and higher temperature.  S.M. Biberman  9/13/01

1.  Be ready to spend a few nights in front of the lathe!  Virtually all of the finish dimensions had to be cut, both on the adapters and the Suz clutch.  Took more cutting to get it to fit inside the cover.  Also neccesary to have a spare mainshaft or something around with the correct splines to use as a mandrel, as everything depends on the splines for concentricity.

2.  I am running it dry, so far.  I started out using only 3 of the six springs, but with slight slippage.  I now am using all six but with about .060 shim washers to lighten them up.  Clutch pull is light.

3.  It engages rather rapidly, within about 1/4 of the lever travel.  Takes some getting used to.  I may try oil in there to see if it softens it up any, and may change the lever ratio.  Paul Zell  03/09/01

Paul Zell, your gulp valve is an interesting device. I've had one apart and you are right in that they are a bit stiff but effective as you have proven. A U-tube manometer is simple to make and use. 8 to 10 feet of clear 1/4 or 5/16" hose stuck to a board. Half full of water and you're set. Rig an old tappet cover with a barb fitting and connect to one end of the tube. Fun to watch it react to different systems and conditions. the tube and water damp the oscillations and give a nice visual average indication of c/case pressures.

John C. it would be interesting to know if your system stays negative
all the way up the rev range.       Steve Hamel  02/27/01

Select the balance figure you require (X) . Therefore  X % of the total weight of the above is the figure to apply to the following experiment.
1. Place the assembled (minus piston) crank on a set of knife edges.
2. The assy. should then fall into a position that puts the crank pin directly above the mainshaft.
3. If they do not, this means that the balance weights are out of kilter. So that material will have to be removed until the aforementioned state is obtained.
4. Then add the weight of the balance factor ( X %) to the small end.

4. Then add the weight of the balance factor ( X % - the weight of the small
end) to the small end. (note: correction in next comment)
5. Roll crank along knife edges.
6. The crank should then stop in any position , no matter where the crank pin is.
7. If the crank pin falls to the bottom or rises to the top , every time time it settles , add some plasticine to the periphery of the wheel until it can stop anywhere. The weight of the plasticine gives you a good guide of the material either to be removed or added.  Derek Peters  02/07/01

So imagine we want 35%    and the total weight of the end plus piston etc. is  21 ounces (example only), and the small end( reciprocating weight ) is 7 ounces,  the weight to be applied would have to be 35% of 21 ozs == 7.35 ....       Now subtract the weight of the small end.    .35 ozs  would be the weight required for the experiment. If we apply a 55%  balance figure the weight would have to be 4.55 ozs. These are imaginary figures.  And all for a static balance.  Trevor  02/07/01

All of the above efforts have been directed at  maximum rejection of heat and maintanance of good ring seal during severe use, all paramount in a racing motor where one expects any chance of winning.  Of equal importance is the proper fitting of the piston to bore and we would  - even with modern silicone alloys - prefer a skirt clearance in a Vincent on the order of  004" rather than risk some picking up or outright seizure.  My old Rattler ran its old Specialloids at no less than .0065"  which had   grown a full thou. after the first run at the lights.  These were 12.5:1 compression ratio.

Serious power needs high combustion chamber heat and tight crown / head interface for any real squish effect. Prior to running the engine, check with clay the actual seperation distances and all relationships between components. Check again after the initial running and later again after the first race when youth and anger makes fools of us all. Repeated examination shows how clearances narrow as the rods fling and valves float  leaving telltail marks the wise tuner had best keep up with, removing  metal whereever evidence is left behind.

Vincents run long and full bore often show scuffing around the piston pin hole on both sides. The scuffs are signs of growth in width across that plane and should be eased by carefull removal of metal in the affected areas.  Pay attention to any valve contact of the edges and surface of the cutaway relief in the piston crown.  Contact in this area may cause serious damage during high-rev valve float periods,  especially where bigger valves and higher lift cams are employed.  Heavier and broader inlet valves bring on float far easier and must be watched as springs weaken.  Burnt and abused exhaust valves can show melting away at their edges from operating at elevated temperatures.          Sid Biberman  02/01/01

  Imagine the completely assembled fly-wheel /rods assembly sitting on bench in front of you, its mainshafts horozontal - left to right - with both rods lying down sloping towards and resting on the bench.  To each side of the rods one faces the edges of the wheels.  With a 6 inch machinest ruler and a felt tip marker {fine point} you  draw a mark across both edges the width of those wheels.  Remove 25 percent of each marked line, this to be off the edges nearest the rods, ie. towards the center of the assembly.  That clean portion of the edge of each wheel will remain untouched during the removal process being needed still as the surface from which all oil is still to be scraped. The remainder of the  marked surface, 75  percent of the original width is to be turned off on an angle outwards towards the outer face of each wheel.  Examine the surface up the side and find a little drilled hole - must be a Works original locating index / fixture point.       This is used as the stopping point for your cut,  and duplicated on both sides. The weight of metal removed in this area does NOT affect the balance yet is a considerable decrease in mass/inertia allowing the assembly to be spun up far quicker consuming far less torque power in the process. Elapsed time over the quarter mile will take a big cut and as a result the speed through the lights can be far higher.  S.M. Biberman  02/01/01 

---

If our ESA assemblies are fitted and done-up carefully, even the B/C units function well and beautifully for many, many thousands of miles.  Only recently have we spotted the reason for broken springs in some examples, actually 2 reasons.  # 1:  Many times the depth of each spring hole in PD3 /2 varies enough to cause a coil-bound condition in a number of those pocketing holes. All must be checked  for drilled depth and the shorter ones drilled deeper. Also, it is wise to inspect the mating together for least free to and fro unchecked movement between the two cam elements, the PD 3/2  and the lobes on the drive sprocket .  Each of the alternative mating positions is tried - pressed together firmly - and the outer element turned in both directions seeking that choice where there is little or no outward thrust - uncontrolled by the spring pressure.  Free movement or coasting will cause rapid cam wear and noise, roughness at town speeds and also broken springs. The springs are to be  each greased and  popped into its mating depression in PD 5 during assembly.  Removable or Blue loctite allows later service  w/o severely damaging the hex on PD 7 and a good air driven impact wrench -1/2 in. drive and a solid socket is the way to insure both fully home assembly and later removal with ease.

Assembled to these standards will insure no spring breakage and long, smooth, and slick functioning. The Series D pattern is
somewhat better with more springs, thicker outer plate and a locking eared washer, all of which is great yet the earlier faults       need be attended to for greatest advantage.

A word of warning: The  big impact wrench driven by 90 to100 PSI air in your tank delivers serious twist and can easily cause problems -as well as work miracles !  The ESA is carried on the drive side main shaft which is held tightly within the flywheel by  its interferance fit as well as a Mills pin,  Irving's term for a rather soft grooved sheer-pin as long used to secure the propeller blade to its driving shaft on an outboard motor. Strike a rock and the pin is cut across and through-saving the Prop but often having one paddle home. My warning -- when using the tools described be very wary when turning on the nut PD 7.

Reduce the air flow approx. 50 percent,  then lean into the wrench while listening /observing and being sharply aware that the nut spins up smoothly till it comes to a gradual stop - ceases to rotate - indicating all  pieces are bottomed out against each other.  Don't bang away at it any more !  Dead home solid is achieved, and no more torque is to be applied lest you spin the shaft in its wheel - sheering that pin !   If a couple of drops of med. loctite has been spread round the threads which were first made clean of oil, then All is Secure. Assembly  is greatly eased by sliding out towards you the splined sleeve PD4 allowing all components to go home, especially disc PD5 must accept those splnes on PD4 .  Sid  Biberman  01/17/01

Alignment run-out often sees the threaded ring off to one side so that the fragile O ring is then off center to the stem. Many valves seen here both used and new when checked are bent quite a bit, and even show poor quality manufacture in that
there is visable runout of valve head to its stem, thus affecting the concentricity between seating area and it's stem, none of which is good for consistant sealing and performance.  Poor service to valve and seat rings will result in blurred and rounded seat/valve faces,  which reduces efficient breathing and power.  We do a 3 angle treatment actually cutting with 3 seperate  cutters set at 3 different angles. The sharply defined edges between each giving a precisely defined seat and width.  The sharp edges contribute to much greater flow across the sealing surface when the mating face of the valve is treated in a similar fashion. The greater the flow, the greater the volumetric efficiency.

None of the above is possible without proper piloting on double diameter pilots riding in both top and bottom guides to assure
positioning of the cutters. We go even one step further by adding a third support.  This a precision steel cap modeled on a  inspection cap but carrying another central boss in excess of one quarter inch thick bored to align with the other two guides  below. Each top guide is selectively positioned for free stem movement and then punch-marked to allow it to be assembled later where earlier it was best located. All of this done to ensure consistant sealing at each valve as well as contrubuting to high power and long life.       Sid Biberman  12/05/00

Some comments.
Every time you heat up a head , and recheck it on the fixture . It never comes back the same. It`s walking ALL the time. I consider that this is also happening in use, especially the front cylinder being the frame. What with the honeycomb muffs and all that.  I think that this is one of the reasons for the front push rods always (nearly) wanting adjustment. A big problem nowadays with heads is that over the years they have been got at , by the go faster, I must make the holes larger, rider. This person believes he can make the plot more efficient, when in fact he is destroying the original design. Valve guides no longer have the supporting material around the part where the guide sticks out into the port, so that when you place a guide in place, on cooling it will tilt away from where it should be. SO NEVER try to use a guide that is a finished size. NO CHANCE.

 I have found out that the face of the upper guide is not always true with guide, especially front exhausts.  Doing it this way could lead to the seats having to be miles out to keep in line. So I now ignore that face and machine it last, this way I now know where it is.  My methods have evolved over the years, some 300 or more heads down the road.

PS. I have never found two heads the same.  Exhaust ports as much as a quarter on an inch out of position, varying in depth by 3/16 " . However did you expect exhaust pipes to fit? Valve guides anywhere but in the correct position , at least to the factory
drawing.  The least said about rocker tunnels, the better.

Trevor Southwell  11/13/00

Further research among my racing engine builder friends found some utilizing Hylomar, but the best seemed to like the very small tubed, and expensive anerobic Loctite...very, very sticky.     Consequently I bought the Loctite and among all the leaks I have had on my Shadow, none have come from utilizing the silicone based materials....and I have purchased no gaskets since.
Locktite 518 is very sticky, tends to stay where applied, and merits consideration.  Carl Hungness  11/03/00

There is no thrust against the oil hole in the cam spindle for it feeds the oil between the two bushes at each end of the cam shaft.  So I maintain that it doesn't matter one jot where the oil holes are located around the circumference.

Correction:  I completely forgot the second oil hole under the inboard bush.  Still with a good supply of oil into the centre of the shaft, I don't think it would cause great problems wherever the holes were located.  However I'm inclined to agree with Sid that it would be better to keep them away from the top position.  DJ Peters  9/29/00

BTW I think the 90W designation for gear lube isn't to signify that level of viscosity, but to keep you from using it in your engine.  Its viscosity is probably more like 50W. In both cars asnd shaftdrive bikes the differential fluid recommended is 90W mineral oil, and obviously its primary function there is to deal with shearing and high load bearing forces without regular, or at least frequent, changes.

As to the recommended viscosity for vintage Brit gearboxes--I think all that matters is the quality of the gearbox seals.  If you've got felt seals in a trannie that's meant for a mix of grease and oil (if not grease alone), it would seem that a lubricant with low viscosity like that recommended for Honda cars (my previous message) will find its way out to decorate other parts of the machine--or to the clutch or primary chaincase.

I still believe as a general theory that it's more important to change oil frequently than it is to use any particular viscosity or "brand" of oil, or oil from a particular source, be it beans, minerals or the laboratory.  I have a prejudice only against high sulphur content oils, because of corrosive damage I've observed as a necessary effect of cooldown cycles.

john caraway  8/00

Vincents:- Well, I use EP grades for the gearbox, varying dependant season, and straight GP50 for the engine -  Tigger Aldus  8/00

I have never had to resort to doing this but it does make a bit of sense when you consider the heat the nuts are working in and the compression they are under and the relative thin wall of the nuts.

I have an exhaust thread bottoming Tap, I bought the tap from a tool company in Hackensack NJ phone 1-800-342-8665 called 'Tool Importers' should you find their email address would you forward it to me - thanks

Andrew Rackstraw

The sticking is yet another problem, and happens at the top of the kickstarter's travel.. The quadrant starts to engage with the ratchet gear and actually winds up "on end of a tooth" and will not go past the end of the tooth to allow the quadrant to engage the ratchet gear fully. It has been said to "file or eliminate the first gear on the quadrant" to allow it to move freely into the ratchet gear, but my experience has shown me that this is really not a great fix.I did not successfully file and remove the proper amounht of material to insure me of no sticking at all times.

Rather, I simply do not allow the kickstarter to go fully back to the top position. I "set" the kickstarter at about one tooth below the top of the quadrant...it is a pretty simple operation actually. If you happen to allow the kickstarter to go back to the top, rather than approximately one tooth down, simply pull in the clutch lever, move the kickstarter down just a touch, and you will make sure you are engaged into the quadrant. In other words, don't kick the bike with the kickstarter absolutely at the top of the kickstarter's travel.

I have had the kickstarter and ratchet gears working so sweetly that it was possible to allow the kickstarter to go all the way to the top, however, when it might stick that once in 50 times is enough to frustrate you, so I just "go one tooth down" and I never have sticking problems.

As noted when discussing this problem previously, having the kickstarter slip can very easily mean a fractured knee. This is a real serious mechanical consideration on your Vincent, so if you have not renewed the  G 48 spring in mention in many years, it is (in my estimation) a MUST to do so, and please add that second spring.          Carl Hungness  7/19/00

    If I were your neighbor I'd take off the timing cover first thing...actually just removing the cover won't do much good. You also have to remove the steady plate and all of the attendant gears that go along with it.     If you have not performed this operation previously (and lined up all the timing marks) be cautioned the Vincent has a "hunting tooth" and you may well turn the engine over several dozen times before everything lines up. If you need further instruction on how to perform the operation, I'm sure there are many who will assist you (myself included).

    Adjusting the mechanism is no easy task either. I believe you are supposed to have about 0.015 clearance between the roller and the lifter, but getting in to measure it is a task for the journeyman. I managed to adjust mine with approximately 3/8" slack before the mechanism started to move, and I had plenty of cable left, and I was able to see the mechanism working perfectly, so I put it back together and she now works a treat.

    As far as having the mechanism leak, you will find numerous cures in the "40 Years On" book and I just completed one that utilizes a valve seal out of a Triumph. I had to make a new outer tube, but the effort was REALLY worth the trouble..so if you do tear the thing apart, NOW is the time to cure the leak..and it will leak..and you will have an oily rear wheel.
    John Healy from Coventry led me through the valve seal fix as did Rip Tragle as well..I had it explained to me twice to make sure I knew what I was doing. You are playing with one of the real Vincent bugaboos here, in my estimation, and it is one to be considered very seriously for I know what the knee damage can be.

    At the same time I would almost Demand that your friend replace the G48 spring with TWO G48 springs, interwound within one another. If he is on an old bike, the G 48 is probably worn badly and the result will be a slipped kickstarter which can (easily) result in a fractured knee..fractured as in bloody. I thought I had discovered a real fix by putting in two G 48's until I discoverd that some of the journeyman mechanics such as Dick Busby have been doing so for years. It will take only minutes to replace the springs. If he has never experienced a slipped kickstarter he is in for the most rude awakening of his life.

My best, Carl Hungness  7/18/00

After removal and deep cleaning, the pair of  finned cylinders are closely examined and measured / compared.  The  purpose
being to Blue-print them to identical thickness top to bottom as well as being bored perfectly central and perpendicular to parallel top and bottom surfaces.  Their  inner bores are taken out enough to fully clean-up and provide a  smooth dead straight and round surface. Unwise to bore any larger than necessary as it loses cylinder strength / rigidty .

The new liner is mounted on expanding mandrels and its outside diameter is reduced dead true to its center and fully larger by  .004"  than the i.d. of that muff selected to mate with it .   At  the exact distance from its top where this liner shall emerge from the bottom of that muff, this sleeve is taken down  to suit one or the other main case register mouth bores - to a fine finish and  a snug slide-in fit into the bolted together cases and marked to identify this mating  for correct assembly .  The remaining  liner and muff are likewise prepared and mated .

The cool liners are fully entered into the heated alloy muffs and held hard-in until cooled off .  The top recess and head spigot
already having been reformed to original dimensions . Later, after final double grit lapping, we like to see an air gap of .003" between the two broad faces, this representing the differance in grain size .  This will close up and come solid upon application of the correct torque loading figure, ie. 30  to 32  ft.lbs. maximum .   No more is needed and actually harmful .

Before final bore and hone procedure, the thrust face oil delivery holes are sited carefully.  These break through below the  oil-ring grooves - at BDC - not into them.   Finally, we prefer to fit a lower liner mouth girdle clamp to prevent  any bell -mouthing while boring and honing .    Good luck .    Sid  Biberman    5/22/00

I took the cams and tried them out, took them out ploted them on a spare engine wrote it down somewhere, and they are still on the shelf. They ran OK, but the bike sounded like a Maytag washing machine to me. A couple of years later Harvey Crane invited me into his Motor home at the SaltFlats to sell me some of his cams. "These got dips in them" says I. "Yeah, 'that's  so the valve will slam shut" says H.C.. I walked over to Dave Matson retold him the story and it turns out Dave had given Crane some cams to regrind correctly because they had dips in them and Dave wanted to Get them fixed!

A few years later in Wendover one night, we're sitting around telling each other how smart we are when on of us who owned a well known cam shop let it out that he and the guy he'd bought the business from had ground cams for years with the Masters set up backwards!  Moral, stick with Gary Robinson, or Phil Irving.                                  Cheers, John

Vincent 1  607 grams-- 314---160

Vincent 2  594-------------333----208

Vincent 3  617--------------316----196

Early Carrillo    (A)    462-----240-----146

Late  Carrillo  (B)    569-----314----182.

Weight of big end bush    93 gram       small end bush   30 gram.

The Vincent rods were weighed complete with both bushes.
The Carrillo  without big end bush and small end bush  (A)
The Carrillo  without big end bush but with bronzed in small end (B)

So you can see that the Carrillo`s are not heavier than a standard Vincent, in either variety...and that Vincent rods have nothing in common.  Another little thing in my book suggesting that there is no such thing as a standard Vincent.....

Trevor Southwell  4/04/00

WHY THAT???Who has never heard of worn out cams+followers+bushes+spindles after too short mileage?? Cams+folls are lubricated by the return oil from the heads.....OK Cam spindle+bush via the 170 jet to convert the large oil flow from the
original pump to ......Pressure able? to lubricate the camshaft plain bearings. This converted pressure is:00004 bar!..something like that! With this added pump the cam bushes and shaft+cam followers and cam friction are lubricated as they should be..under pressure. Several Twins and Comet  in France are such assembled and all is all right on this side now. After some checks at differents mileages no signs of wear compared with the std  at the same mileage.......Another report in 50 000more
miles!

  Sorry for my weak English.       Francois GROSSET. (France)