Bones is also the master of the logo, with seems a part of the finish. Numerous tanks all have a Jewel-like quality. Even 20 year old ones he has done are superb.
Regarding a primer on Gold Leaf application there
are two essential approaches;
1. Applying the leaf on the primer prior to the
color coat (black,red, blue, BRG...)
2. Applying the leaf on top of the color (black...)
along with the decals.
As a long-time furniture maker and finisher, I prefer the First approach, as I tend to error frequently, and usually this approach allows for corrections at each step. Most auto and metal finishers prefer the latter, as there is less layering and the finish can be as thick or as light as desired.
First Approach;
Prepare tank for paint. Do all fill and repairs,
preparing the metal for the primer coat. I generally apply enough primer
to sand out all of the small deviations. I use a 'rouge' primer which tends
to give the leaf a warmer tone.
I then lay out my lines using tissue templates
with a drafting wheel (perforates the tissue for chalk outlines) off of
a master I made.
There is an excellent article in MPH 543 (June
'93) about the line layout.
After marking out the lines, I lay a brush-stroke
of leaf size (a slow drying varnish) and begin laying thin strips of leaf
along the line. I allow the brush stroke of size to over run the layout
and overlap each leaf slightly as I work down the line. This gives some
room for error (my mantra) and allows more control over the leaf.
Now you have to understand that the leaf is like
ash. Very thin, delicate and light. It tends to want to float and fly away.
Use a thin, wide leaf brush with a bit of hair-oil to capture the leaf
on the end and lightly lay it out on the size line.
Once you have laid your lines, allow the the size
to dry thoroughly. After it is completely dry, with your leaf brush, brush
away the leaf that is not adhered to the size. This will also allow you
to see any areas that did not adhere, and you can just add a touch a bit
of size and repair with small bits of leaf, burnishing with your brush.
After you are satisfied with your lines, shoot
them with two or three light coats of clear finish.
Now you may use 1/4" or 3/16" pinstripe mask. This is a light adhesive mask that is available at auto finish suppliers. Carefully layout your lines again, this time take care to get them perfect, masking the leaf from the color coat.
Now you are ready to apply your Black coat. Spray an even full coat and allow to dry 75%. Depending on your choice of finishes, you may just have to begin removing the mask as the finish sets, but is still soft enough to not give a ragged edge. This takes practice but if you are consistent with your application, it should go well.
Now when the black coat is fully cured, you may apply your decals. Water Slides tend to have air trapped under, so burnish them in position until all clear areas of the decal cannot be seen on the black coat.
Finally, top coat with a compatible clear coat
with as many coats as you can stand. Leaving enough finish to wet sand
to a perfect polish.
The very last step is to Wet sand, beginning
with 400 or 600 grit, depending on your spraying abilities, and work your
way down through 800, 1000, 1200, 1500. Now you can us buffing compound
and get the mile deep finish to impress your friends.
Here is my supplier for leaf and tools: http://www.seppleaf.com/
For the Second approach, someone else will have
to chime in, as I have never attempted it, and "steady hand" is not my
middle name. Or, you could just send it to Bones, and your friends
will be impressed, none the less. John Romano
7/30/07
The absolute Guru of gold leafing on Vincents is Bones
Cooper in Knoxville. He's been doing it
for 27 years. He has templates for every style of tank. Every time I got
an original tank in,we made a template off of it. Compositions of paint
changes as does the clear compostion. He stays abreast of how it all interacts
and changes techniques accordingly. He has also been kown to do it on the
tanks of other paint shops......since they couldn't get it. Somer
7/30/07
Process is: sand with wet/dry 80 grit the
outside till smooth, get the nooks and crannys. The point is not
to sand it back off but smooth it for paint and primer. Use
a zinc or tin compatible etch primer such as Diamont DE-15 or Valspars
products then follow with a sand and fill primer such as Diamont DP-20
or Valspar DP-50. Make sure you properly rubber cushion the
tank mounting on the bike and you have a tank for a lifetime. It's
what I use on restorations and all my personal bikes. If you never
want to worry about rust or leaks it's a bargain and worth it.
I used to do a lot of paint jobs for people and no one ever
complained about that coating.
By copper plating I'm assuming you are talking
about an electroplating application. Vic out at Vanderstar plating claims
that (when discussing plating) that you would have to be very careful plating
a gas tank as (according to him) the current flow isn't even. You
have to be careful as the place of greater current flow or conduction is
where you would achieve the highest transfer of metal (in this case copper).
Therefore an experienced plater will tune or place his anodes to get even
coverage. Yet, on a odd shaped or tear dropped shaped gas tank inevitably
some areas would be thicker than others. Vic also stated anode placement
is critical as well in the respect that you could easily short out and
blow a hole in a tank in high current transfer processes. I suppose for
safety sake you could use low current, but your plating times could be
relatively lengthy. From OVM list 2/19/05
Red Vincents:
The story I heard was that Pinchin Johnson, who supplied the factory with
black enamel, also supplied the red enamel for the GPO, the UK's
state-run postal service. The colour was known
as 'Post Office Red' and all their vans and their telegram delivery motorcycles
etc. were painted that way. Apparently, the PJ rep had a batch he needed
to move on and offered it to the Vincent factory at a good price. The colour
has a bit of an orange tint which is red with some yellow, Vincents couldn't
use the P.O. Red name so they came up with Chinese Red. Frank Griffin,
The Hague, Holland 2/5/05
"What paint?"
is like the question "What woman?" Everybody has a different idea.
In my experience the best paint is only so good. No matter how much
you suffer to get it on there, when you glide down the highway a rock flies
up from somewhere, hits it and chips it a little.
As a practical thing, I've used Plasti-Kote for about 40 years now. I clean the surface with a scotchbrite pad and varsol until the loose material, dirt and oil is all gone, dry with compressed air, mask as needed and hang it up where I can see it and get at it with my spray bomb. Holding a suitable light in one hand and the bomb in the other, I give it a couple of light coats, trying to avoid runs. If any occur, Plasti-Kote is very good about absorbing them so that they almost disappear.
After a day, I give it a couple more coats, using my light to see that I am covering everything, because the black is difficult to see. I repeat on subsequent days until I have eight coats or so on there. It seems to like plenty, and I have never seen any fault develop from 'too much' paint.
The paint will shrink as it dries, and drying may be hastened by putting the part out on the clothesline where the sun and wind can get at it. Masking tape needs removal within a few days or it gets stuck hard on there.
This is what I do, and it seems to stay on there
as the decades unfold. The appearance of it is about the same as the original
Works paint (which looked terrible on my '52 Black Shadow when I bought
it in '60, btw) but
more durable. Bill Hoddinott 11/24/04
You simply will not do any better than Powder
Coating. The only minor drawback to the
powder coating is that you will have to mask every surface you don't want
painted. Plus, you should surely plug all the holes that are threaded.
Ask your powder coater which masking tape he wants and don't take for granted
you know what you are doing. The powder coating has to be the most durable
method on the market today. It can be removed as well. it can be blasted
off, or you'll find that MEK will work.
I polished the fins on my cylinder heads, and
cylinders. During the powder coating process each fin in turn was wiped
(with a finger) and revealed the polished surface. They look great. However,
if you happen to leave any traces of the polishing compound in-between
the fins for example, you'll ruin the job. You can even powder coat
the polished aluminum primary covers, mudguards, etc. But you should have
the coater put your bare aluminum in the oven heat it, pull it back out,
and then do the coating. If you don't you will experience out-gassing which
will leave tiny bubbles on the surface. Or, for polished aluminum
there is a new product out called ZOOPS SEAL which is to my knowledge the
best clear process invented to date. Carl Hungness 11/24/04
Use Plasti-Kote gloss black engine enamel from
the autoparts store. This is a very tough and good polyurethane in a spray
bomb. Use six or eight coats, applied one or two per day. Use
a good light in one hand so you can see where you are spraying. Put
on wet coats but short of the 'running' point. The paint will dry
and shrink down, and has a good trait of absorbing or minimizing any runs
you do get. Remove your masking tape within a day or so after you
get finished or it will get
stuck hard on there. Pull the tape in a
direction not to pull your paint off the surfaces.
Clean and mask your heads and barrels the same way, and set them as sets to paint. Use only two light coats at one time for them, you don't want heavy paint on heads and barrels because it interferes with heat dissipation.
The first time you fire up the completed engine, you will smell a little of the paint, this is normal because it is 'baking'. You will find that this Plasti-Kote will stay on and look good for many years, if you have done a decent job of cleaning the parts of oil and dirt before application.
The same paint is also very successful for frame
parts. I found commercial painters maddening for cycle parts, because
they don't seem to care about doing a meticulous job. So long ago
I developed the above procedure for doing it myself. It's easier,
and better, and I can get the quality of work I want. "The easy way
is the natural way..."(Marcus Aurelius). Bill Hoddinott 4/22/04
A few years ago I bought an Eastwood
powder coater. The thing is
just great . The powder that it uses is polyester for colors and polyurathane
for clear. If you want high gloss use the one called mirror black . They
also have a body filler that you can powder coat and it can stand 500degF
vs 400degF for the powdercoat. When you use the filler it should be degased
by heating it to 400deg for about 20mins, if you don't you will get bubbles.
For doing a frame, heat the frame up to 400deg and
shoot it while its hot, then get a couple of
quartz heaters and finish melting it a section at a time, Of course a big
oven would be best, but they cost money. Little parts can be done in a
little toaster oven or an old kitchen oven. So far I've powdercoated many
small parts, two moto X bike frames one motoguzzi frame and both my ex
wives . The moto-X bike frames were used for racing and
the most wear occured where the riders feet were in contact with the frame.
The paint wore off just like enamel paint would. Experiment-- if
you screw it up you can sand it down a little and shoot it again. Small
parts can be striped of powdercoat by letting them soak in a bucket of
acetone overnight. The coating will gell and can then be removed by whatever
means you want. And YES you can do a professional job. Why? Because
you can take your time and be more meticulous than the jobbers. To get
back to the heaters, they are the convection type not the ones that have
a fan. Also they have to be positioned very close to the part to work well
. I have two heaters made by a company called Marvin. I found them on the
internet and they cost about 35USD. T Monte 2/4/02
The Mercury Crest transfers
turned out to be water slide. Went onto the steering head very nicely,
using the backing paper and then paper toweling to remove moisture and
smooth out bubbles. Next, the tank Vincent scroll backing did not
separate with warm water. I added isopropol alcohol and the backing came
off, leaving a facing layer with the transfer itself on the back of this
layer. However, the transfer remained affixed to the facing layer and would
not stick to the tank. The transfer material seems to be very thin, almost
like a layer of paint, that evidently must adhere to the paint surface
well enough to allow the
tissue facing material to be peeled off. I'm
wondering if this is a type of transfer requires some type of varnish
or other adhesive on the tank.
Jack Severson 03/24/01
Red Rapide Paint:
Dupont Centari Enamel # 29198 AH
Sid Biberman 03/30/01
1. You can shoot digital photos of the original
decal positioning on all the parts.
2. You can reproduce Every decal on a motorcycle.
3. After shooting the paint, apply the
decals, by grabbing images of motorcycle parts in the digital camera
and then overlaying the Original digital images to perfectly position the
decals.
4. After the decals are in place,
shot clear over them.
Cost? $150 over the basic paint job.
The room and cases should be warm, about 78 -
80 degrees F. I prefer to start with the cases upside down,
resting on the tips of the big cylinder head studs, working my way around
and down towards the studs . This way the bottom messed up spots when flopped
over onto the bottom are easily touched up, and are not seen anyway.
Warm the cans in water to body temperature before use to get more consistant
flow and pattern .
Some nozzles do better than others so swap the
good one to the next can. Blow clean with the PJ1 through the nozzle
in both directions. Light fog coat first, allowed to setup a few
minutes to create tight base tooth. Now, walking around the motor,
this sitting on a bar stool - about level with your belly and well flood-lit
- spray with fairly rapid but smooth passes left to right and back again,
distance 12 to 14 inches away. Light overlapping passes across
the case bottom {now upwards facing you} keeping
up that smooth motion as you walk slowly yet steadily around the motor
on its stool. Keep a keen eye out for any
signs of a run developing - thus the need to
use only light repeated passes while moving constantly - all to limit the
thickness of the paint deposited in any one place.
When you reach past the halfway down location - stop. Rest a moment. Now a test of your strength ! Grasping the long studs now beneath, now focusing your effort, you raise upwards the wet and glistening case and while held aloft you rotate it so that studs now point upwards -and sit it back down on its bottom without marring its shiny coat. Take up the spraying process once again where you left off a moment earlier, the paint still wet from the last pass. Blending in an overlapping pass, continue to walk around as before. Work upwards until you are covering the cylinder mouths and have painted all covers and every crevace with care.
The final judgement to stop is a magical moment when that glisten is apparent over the full surface like a wet piece of hard candy. You cannot go back over it to just correct a small thin spot because the overspray will futz up other areas, even the other side and kill that flawless glisten so desired. Make the decision and leave the room, allowing no one to enter that room for 48 hours.
Leave the floods on to warm the surface, thus
assisting it gassing off. The final bake off will need an oven temperature
of 170 to 200 degrees F. for about 4 hours continous. I leave
the oven door cracked open about 1 inch to allow the paint vehicle
gasses to leave the surface freely. Allow it to cool until cold sitting
undesturbed in the cold oven, its door propped open about 3 to 4 inches
to allow a more gradual cooling process . Sid Biberman
11/27/00
In the case of the mudguards, I experienced some "crazing" whereby the powder appeared as though it cracked under a bolt head, and turned white.The headlight and forks turned out great, no bubbles at all.
I am now in the process of doing the procedure over again. To strip you can utilize the expensive aircraft stripper with very good results. Plus, MEK (methyl ethyl keotone) also works, but it is best if the part is completely submerged. The aircraft quality stripper works (n my estimatio) best, and you won't have to worry about blasting. If you will brush the stripper on, in one direction, in a warm room, then cover it with Saran wrap (a clear film) it will be most effective as chemicals will not evaporate immediately.
You do have to worry about is masking the part before coating. Make sure you mask all flat gasket surfaces, plus plug any holes as the process is electrostatic and will attract the powder to oil galleys, threads, holes, etc. Removing it with a file is possible, but tedious. Overall I would not be afraid to powder coat a set of cases (Black for example) or even clear with proper preparation.
On flat areas (such as the chainguard) you will experience some orangepeel (waviness). The problem can be addressed by actually sanding the powder coat and spraying with a clear lacquer. I did mine with good results.
I just polished the fins of my cylinders, spent
HOURS cleaning off the residue, and then had the cylinders coated black.
White the paint is wet, the powder coater wipes each fin with his finger
and leaves it shiny...I'll do the same with my cylinder heads.You can see
the same procedure on custom Harleys in the bike magazines today.
To my eye, the fins now sparkle and look great. For those in
the Midwest looking for a conscientious coater, I recommend Indy Powder
Coating at 317 244-2231 Carl Hungness 11/19/00
I've used Imron.
It is a two part polyurethane plastic that is as thin as lacquer.
It dries very fast and coats can be applied in 20 minute intervals until
the desired thickness is achieved. I found it very easy to apply.
However, breathing the vapors is lethal!!! I devised
some very sophisticated breathing aparatus and do all my painting in a
plastic film tent so no vapors escape. I cover all exposed skin,
wear goggles, and breath only outside air through my special aparatus.
Some stores, I'm told, will not sell this paint to anyone but recognized
paint shops due to it dangerous nature,
however, I had no problem buying mine.
I believe the final finish to be non-brittle--it's polyurethane plastic,
but I
make no claim that is correct. Jay Schaffer
11/18/00
Beware of powder coating
on the engine. It is difficult to get
powdercoaters to apply it evenly and thinly. Original paint was very thin,
as it should be. Barely enough to color. Any more retards heat transfer.
I suspect parts were dipped originally. Contamination
in old castings is difficult to remove and troublesome in powdercoating
because it keeps coming out as parts are heated. I've tried both powder
and wet painting. I prefer wet painting with catalyzed urethane for
the most authentic look and performance. Steve Hamel
11/18/00
The orginal transfers
were applied by soaking in alcohol or by applying varnish or "Tack"(?)on
the back. One of the early Domiracer catalogs gave a good description of
the process.
Problems 1) It is VERY tedious.Once the
transfer is in place, its there.
2) The transfer is probably worthless. They age and will crack up.
3)I don't know how clearcoating would affect them. I'd go crazy if I made
it through 1&2 to only have it craze when it was cleared.
Rx. My paint man uses the regular water transfer decals. Some clears will
attack them. Every time he gets a technique figured out, the EPA changes
the formulas of the clear. Put a decal on the bottom and experiment. Also
if you are adept with a paint brush go around paint black over the small
border around the transfer. Otherwise there will be a small white border
around it. The vinyl "peel and stick" are about one mill thick. They will
stand proud once applied and cleared. I guess you could clear it alot.
I think the water transfer ones are best. Make sure they are new too. Some
of thee old ones seem to deteriorate with age. Tank covers are cheaper!
The above ramblings are not nesesarily those of a sane mind. Somer
Hooker 4/24/00
These sound like the "Varnish Type" which I used
this type on my Shadow in the early '80s. I found them to be much
more difficult to apply than the waterslide types. The waterslide
has two components: The backing paper and the transfer
while the varnish type has three: The transfer, a tissue covering
and finally, the backing paper. Jeff Clew goes into it in more detail
in The Restoration of Vintage and Thoroughbred Motorcycles:
The "nutshell" version of the application procedure involves applying "varnish" (as the adhesive) to the back of the transfer and letting it "touch dry" before removing the thicker backing paper (leaving the tissue in place)and applying to the applying tank. The tissue paper is left on the transfer after installation and is left there until the transfer dries. The tissue is then moistened and removed and the remaining tissue adhesive sponged off.
It sounds very easy, but itis not in practice.
The newer waterslides are infinitely easier to apply properly and therefore
are more likely to produce a better finisehd product, in my opinion.
Perhaps your friend remembers the
waterslides available in the '70s which were
not true reproductions of the original?
Alcohol? I have used "Spirit fit" Achilles Wheel transfers. The mixture is 75% methanol and 25% water. They tended to wrinkle during drying. Use waterslides. Russ Williams 4/24/00
This appears to be the transfer type I have. Anyone tried these,
and what is methylated spirit? Paul Zell 4/24/00
I apply either type in the following manner(short version):
1. Split paper with transfer from cardboard(needed for production and
packaging only)
2. Make sure where exactly the transfer is going. Put on some
masking tape pieces as supporting markings to help in the final placement
(=trial runs).
3. Paint the rear of the transfer only (gold size = splendid !!! as
this is REAL gold and will have the exact colour and stay that way; and
be a perfect match for the gold size lining to be applied later....
) Paint with Clear Humbrol hobby paint... this is clear one
step Poly Urethane , will take any clear coat without lifting or "boiling"
later....
4. The advantage of this varnish is that it is reasonably slow drying
and comes in a handy size box... :o)
5. When the Humbrol is tacky, place paper with transfer aided
by masking tape in the right spot. Sorry: Get it right this first
time! (therefore the "dummy-runs" and masking tape !!)
6 .Use back of finger nail and "polish out" the transfer and
get it well stuck.
7. Let it dry, if you have painted another spot with the Humbrol
you'll get an idea as to when "tacky" and when all dry.. Backin paper still
there.....
8. Make up an egg glass, cup, or a saucer with half and half
water and red spirit(metylated spirit= for use in petrol during winter
for removing carburettor icing) or methanol and dab the paper in this solution
with a cotton cloth on the backing paper until it is transparent...
9. When the spirit (alcohol) soluble paper-transfer glue is "liquid",
slide the paper backing off and carefully clean the finished transfer
with the rest of the alcohol solution.
10. Finished!
The reason for the paper backing lies in the screenprinting process of making transfers(decals).. without the paper and the alchohol solulbe glue, the transfer will have to be much thicker (a separate base) and many more coats of clear will have to be applied to give a coating thick enough to be sandend down again for the last all-even-shine...
Sorry for the length of this, but not many know of the old ways.....Please contact me if this needs clearifying or further arguments.. :o)
PS I use the same materials for REAL gold linings...............(no brown "gold" paint) Per Erik and F/10/AB/1/17 4/24/00